Side Trip to Martha's Vineyard
Date Posted: August 21, 2023
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A distance of less than 4 nm divides Martha's Vineyard from the southern shore of Cape Cod. The Vineyard is a relaxed summer resort with four distinctively different harbors (Menemsha, Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown), high land, wooded bluffs, historic towns and handsome houses. The southern and western shores consist of ocean beach, salt marsh and the multicolored cliffs of Gay Head towering high above the sea. Colored veins of earth-hued clay (white, yellow, tan, sienna, rust, brown) make the cliffs a muted rainbow.

Remember that many of the towns on The Vineyard are "dry" so bring your own (brown bagging) is the rule when it comes to alcohol. This method is permitted at most restaurants. Martha's Bike Rentals (833-362-7842) will deliver and pick up bikes anywhere on the island.

 

Edgartown

Edgartown is one of the world's great yachting centers. This is a wonderful walking town with lovely boutiques, small cafés and galleries. Many impressive yachts are moored here in season. Particularly striking are the classic wooden power vessels kept in peak condition by ever-polishing, multi-member crews. Elegant, historic New England houses–all meticulously restored–line the streets ashore. With the help of prevailing sea breezes, grand shade trees provide natural air-conditioning and flowers abound.

Katama Bay continues to be a naturalist's delight. Ospreys, terns, whippoorwills and a variety of gulls all seem to thrive here. Near-deserted South Beach, one of the most unspoiled and beautiful in the islands, is a relatively easy motorized dinghy ride from almost any spot in the bay.

 

Oak Bluffs

Just to the south of the high bluffs of East Chop lies Oak Bluffs, known in the 19th century as "Cottage City." Tiny houses gaily painted and festooned with gingerbread and scrollwork can still be seen here at the Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting Grounds, a Methodist camp that dates back to 1835. Today, Oak Bluffs is the resort harbor of Martha's Vineyard.

The harbor is crowded and hectic and there is much to enjoy here. Some skippers will actually pass on Oak Bluffs Harbor because it always looks full. In fact, because of the careful organization of this harbor, far more mooring and slip space is available than in either Vineyard Haven or Edgartown (but there's no room for anchoring). There's good eating along Circuit Ave. Just stroll up and back until the right scent hits you.

 

Vineyard Haven

In 1845 most coastal shipping traveled through Vineyard Sound with 13,814 vessels counted in that year alone. This was due to Vineyard Haven's premiere location on the sailing routes. The island's chief port, Vineyard Haven, still has a busy harbor that serves as the primary ferry terminal and the foremost commercial and recreational marine center. The harbor is wide and open to the northeast but a rock breakwater protects the inner harbor beach and recreational beach from all but the worst of the incoming swells.

The beach is the big attraction on the Vineyard and many beaches can easily be reached from the marinas by bike. Beyond the numerous marine facilities, Vineyard Haven has just about any recreational and provisioning opportunity you might want set in the ambiance of an old New England village.

 

Menemsha

Consciously quaint Menemsha, about 3 nm east of Aquinnah (Gay Head) on the Vineyard Sound side, is a fishing port working at staying unspoiled. You can hike along vacant dunes, watch the long liners unload, socialize with local artists and get a well-prepared meal or deli sandwich here.

The Menemsha Basin is homeport to lobster boats, trawlers, sportfishers and charter and party boats. Shanties used by fishers line the picturesque but crowded harbor head. A couple of fish markets, several fine restaurants, a market and a wide variety of shops can be found in this picturesque town. Fish markets will cook your purchase if requested and you can go behind the market and eat at one of their picnic tables.

Menemsha is the closest harbor to Aquinnah, the westernmost town on Martha's Vineyard, which is not easily accessible by boat. The Wampanoag Tribe runs the Aquinnah Cultural Center (508-645-7900) and gift shop. Other gift and craft shops as well as restaurants and snack shops are nearby. You can also walk to 1844 Gay Head Light, which was moved 129 feet back from the eroding cliff in 2015 and offers a magnificent view of the Elizabeth Islands.

 

 

For information on navigation, dockage and anchorage in the above harbors refer to Chapter 13 of the Waterway Guide Northern 2023 Edition.

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